If You’re 50+, Here’s Exactly How to Care for Your Nails (2024)

Remember when a “matchy-matchy” mani-pedi debate was your number one nail concern? After your 40s, though, nail trends take a backseat to new struggles like brittleness, ridges, or color that always seems to chip. “Like our skin, over the years our nails start to weaken and can become thin and brittle,” says Dr. Kseniya Kobets, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Advanced Care. While midlife can disrupt a fresh mani, there are many ways to smooth out the bumps (and ridges). The right know-how from the pros will help you level up your nail care plan for middle age and beyond. Below, the experts share tips for nail care in your 50s…

Meet the experts:

• Dr. Kseniya Kobets, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Advanced Care in New York City and Westchester, New York.
• Dr. Dana Stern, MD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Dana nail care.
• Dr. Anthony Rossi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
• Marcela Correa, a licensed medical pedicurist and owner of Medi Pedi NYC.
• Miss Pop, an editorial nail artist based in New York City.
• Queenie Nguyen, a celebrity manicurist based in Los Angeles.
• Julie Kandalec, a celebrity manicurist and educator based in New York City.

How do nails age, exactly?

First of all, let’s be clear: Turning 50 doesn’t automatically make your nails weak and brittle, just like being in your 20s doesn’t guarantee long, strong ones. “There is tremendous variety in nail health and quality just like there is hair,” says Dr. Dana Stern, MD, a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist who specializes in nail health (she’s also the founder of a nail care line, Dr. Dana). “There are women in their 90s who have thick, lustrous hair and women in their teens who do not. It's the same concept with nails.”

The biological changes that arise as you get older can impact the nails in terms of thickness, contour, and color, says Dr. Anthony Rossi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. Decreases in both cholesterol (the main lipid in nails) and blood circulation predispose nails to conditions like brittleness and peeling. “As we age, efficient blood flow to the hands and feet can become compromised,” says Dr. Stern. And since nails receive oxygen and nutrients from the bloodstream, this can negatively impact nail health, she explains.

You may start to see textural issues like a bumpy or uneven nail surface in middle age, including ridges that run the length of the nail also known as onychorrhexis. “Ridges are akin to wrinkles in the nail. When parts of the nail growth plate become thinner and begin to atrophy, the result is ridging,” says Dr. Stern. Thickening of the nail may occur as well. This is common in toenails due to chronic rubbing or friction in your shoes, she says.

“If you were to look at an aging nail under the microscope, you would see that the nail cells are detached, lifted, and separating. This is why the nail peels, splits, and even why polish doesn't always go on so smoothly and has more of a tendency to chip,” Dr. Stern says. That explains why growing — and maintaining — a long, strong mani becomes an ongoing challenge.

Add to that the fact that as we age, nail growth is likely to become more sluggish. “As we age, our nails grow at a slower rate,” Dr. Stern confirms. “In fact, studies have shown statistically significant differences in growth rates before and after age 40.” Unfortunately, this decline leaves nails extra vulnerable to damage and discoloration. “As our nail growth rates slow, the nails are exposed to considerably more environmental influences and over time, these exposures can affect the color and overall appearance and strength of our nails,” Dr. Stern says.

While age-related nail changes are common and often harmless, they can also signal an underlying disorder or health concern, says Dr. Rossi. So be sure to check with your doctor if your nails develop pits, ridges, lines, or changes in shape. “These can be related to iron deficiency, kidney disease, and nutritional deficiencies,” he says.

Bottom line: Nails need more attention and TLC as you get older, so get ready to level up your at-home routine — and to see a pro if problems persist. Read on to learn on how to keep them healthy (and continue to live out your nail art dreams if that’s your thing).

Care for Your Cuticles

Daily skincare habits count when it comes to nails, so be sure to regularly slather (or slug!) your cuticles and nail beds with a moisturizer such as jojoba oil, says Marcela Correa, a licensed medical pedicurist and owner of Medi Pedi NYC. (One to try: CND Solar Oil.) If you prefer a cream, New York City-based editorial nail artist Miss Pop is a fan of Nailtopia’s Orange Cuticle Conditioner. “It’s not greasy and it’s quick absorbing,” she says.

Also, when you find yourself confronted with cuticle nippers at the salon, just say no. “Do not cut the cuticle as this may be a source of infection and can lead to damage of the nail matrix [where the nail stem cells reside]. Instead they can be pushed back after they’ve been softened,” Dr. Rossi says. You may have gotten away with conservative cuticle cutting over the years, but as you get older and more prone to infection, it’s not worth the risk.

Treat Your Nails to a Facial

Nails benefit from gentle exfoliation just like the rest of your skin. In between weekly polish changes, as you age, Correa recommends a “trimless” DIY manicure that incorporates filing your nails to a healthy length, buffing and applying oils for elasticity, moisture and nail growth. The combination of gentle exfoliation and hydration increases nail flexibility and combats brittleness, Dr. Stern says. Her weekly renewal system incorporates glycolic acid for chemical exfoliation and a moisturizing step rich in phospholipids.

Cleanse With Face Wash

Diligent hand hygiene is necessary, but the combo of traditional hand soap and hot water can be brutal for your skin and nails. “Eczema flares or hand dermatitis can affect the cuticles and this inflammation can alter the texture and shape of the nails, making them brittle, thin, and indented,” says Dr. Kobets. She recommends handwashing with a hydrating formula like LaRoche Posay Lipikar Wash AP+ Moisturizing Body & Face Wash, CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser, or Dove Sensitive Skin Beauty Bar. To minimize prolonged exposure to water, Correa advises wearing gloves when doing household chores like washing dishes. Follow-up with a hearty dose of hand cream.

Be Selective About Your Tools

Nail files with a lower grit are rougher and can cause uneven nail edges and jaggy edges, warns celebrity manicurist Queenie Nguyen. Ditch those orange emery boards (too abrasive!) and invest in a high grit glass nail file to shape natural nails smoothly. Julie Kandalec, a celebrity manicurist and educator, likes the Germanikure Glass Nail File. “This file is great for sealing the edges of a splitting or peeling nail,” she says. Also, a fine-grit buffer is another helpful tool to help smooth ridges. “Maryton Nail Buffer yellow buffers are some of my favorites; they are extremely fine grit and move lightly over the natural nail without damaging it,” says Kandalec.

Finally, be very careful with orange sticks or other tools designed to clean under the edge of the nail. “As we age, our nails do not adhere as firmly to the nail bed and so a small amount of trauma can inadvertently pry the nail off of the nail bed and result in onycholysis, which is separation of the nail plate from the nail bed. This is extremely common in women after age 50,” Dr. Stern says.

Play it Safe with Nail Shape

Rule number one: Use clippers to trim the nail, never for creating shape. “When cutting your own nails, leave enough of the nail above the skin and then file them down to your desired length. Most ingrown nails occur because of mistakes when cutting our nails too short or curved,” says Correa. And the best nail shape as we age? The manicurists we spoke with said that a shorter round or oval nail shape can help de-emphasize the volume loss in the fingers and hands that can happen after 50. Nguyen also likes round because it helps prevent hangnails and nail cracks. That said, if you love a long stiletto nail, by all means continue to wear a long stiletto nail.

Camouflage Ridges

“Ridges are a natural part of the aging process, but it can make polish application, especially with sheer colors, more difficult,” says Miss Pop. Use a gentle approach to downplay bumps. “Don’t try to buff ridges away, they’re not going anywhere and you’ll end up just thinning your nail,” she explains. Miss Pop likes ORLY Nail Armor, which can be worn alone to fill ridges or used as a base coat under nail polish.

Ready for color? Opt for cream textures over metallic or matte textures. “Frosted nail polish will highlight the ridges in your nails, making them look deeper and much more dramatic,” says Kandalec.

At the salon, a professional “structured manicure” can help to smooth out the ridges in the nails as well. “I recommend doing a soft gel overlay with soak-off builder gel to smooth out the ridges. It helps the client get a little bit of protection and strength and helps the [gel] polish go on smoother and better, without showing the ridges,” says Kandalec.

Protect Splitting Nails

For split fingernails, a short-length mani (or clear top coat) can protect the nail and hold it together. “As long as there is no redness, pain, or signs of infection, you can use nail polish over splitting nails,” says Dr. Kobets. Miss Pop recommends gel, nail lacquer, or top coat to hold the nail together. “For a client who doesn’t want to wear color or even just glossy top coat, I recommend matte top coat. Matte top coat will look like the natural nail, but give you some protection,” she says. Similarly, longer-lasting and hard manicures with dip powder can help grow out the nail by securing it in place, though Dr. Kobets points out that any polish or gel contains chemicals that can damage and thin the nail and warns against keeping long-lasting powdered or acrylic nails on for too long. “No longer than four to six weeks, as it can predispose the nail to fungal infections,” she says.

And keep in mind that while polish can be protective in holding the nail together, remover is damaging to the nail. “The removal process requires a solvent like acetone, and solvents tend to dehydrate the nails and make them more prone to breakage and splitting,” says Dr. Stern. If you’d prefer to grow out the split nail naturally, be sure to keep the affected one covered when taking a shower or getting it wet in general, says Correa. She suggests using the Fungi Fix Hypoallergenic Sleeves and applying an antifungal oil like Gehwol’s Nail Care Oil daily as a preventative measure until the split nail grows out.

Refresh Stains (But See a Doc for Other Discolorations)

Color changes to your nails are a natural part of the aging process, but discolorations and streaks (typically dark yellow or red) can also result from fungal infection or other health conditions, so it’s best to check with your doctor to be certain. Nail stains that result from prolonged polish wear can be brightened at home with denture tablets. “This is a trick I do regularly on set, since it’s fast acting. Take three tablets and put them in a cereal bowl. Soak the nails briefly. Then, I use a toothbrush to scrub on the denture tablet foam. This typically can [brighten] nails in minutes,” Miss Pop says.

Think Holistically

A healthy lifestyle that includes proper nutrition to nourish the body will also help nourish the nails, says Dr. Kobets. She recommends maintaining healthy vitamin levels and monitoring for anemia, sugar levels, diabetes/prediabetes, and thyroid disorders, which can all affect the nails. While you might be tempted to try an oral supplement like biotin, check with your doctor first. “Biotin can help nail growth but can alter cardiac or thyroid lab tests, so if you are taking a high dose let your doctor know,” says Dr. Rossi.

Choose Your Salon Carefully

As you get older, where you get your nails done is just as important as how you do your nails. Regular podiatric care and medical pedicures are a safe way to care for toenails as mobility issues make DIY grooming more challenging. “Arthritis, decreased flexibility and manual dexterity as well as nail thickening can make cutting toenails difficult,” Dr. Stern notes. For regular salons, check to make sure the salon adheres to safe and hygienic practices, including using sterilized tools and plastic tub liners for foot baths. “As we age, our immune system is not as efficient in staving off or fighting infections. Thus, while nail fungal infections and bacterial infections are a risk for everyone with manicures/pedicures, it may be higher as we become older and especially if someone has other health issues like diabetes or autoimmune issues,” says Dr. Kobets.

When in Doubt, See a Doctor

Vitamin deficiency, anemia or thyroid disorders, and hormonal changes related to menopause can all affect nail health, Dr. Kobets says. And nail conditions like psoriasis and fungus can sometimes be indistinguishable. So how do you know if the changes you are experiencing are due to the natural aging process or something that requires special attention? “The key is timing. If the change is sudden, see your primary care physician or a board-certified dermatologist,” says Dr. Stern. Likewise, see a doctor if the condition is chronic and not improving as the nail grows out, says Dr. Rossi. Final tip: Before your appointment, be sure to remove your nail polish. It will be a wasted visit if you show up and the doctor cannot fully evaluate the nails, Dr. Kobets says.

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